One day for Budapest is wholly inadequate. Where to start? We were overwhelmed with choices and finally decided just to walk as far as we could and see what we were able to. So far, our father's story has led us on our journey, but Budapest was not a significant part of his early life. I asked him a few days ago what we should do in Budapest, and he reaffirmed that the city did not register his youth, but that he had visited it later. He suggested we listen to music and look at the art nouveau architecture. So that is what we did. The churches were playing Vivaldi and touristy stuff, so instead we attended a folk dance performance, which was the best part of our day. The dancers had exuberant energy and the men were incredibly skilled and stamped and slapped and contorted their legs in odd positions. The music was wonderful, with two violins, a viola played sideways, a base and a 'cimbalom', a sort of dulcimer, as well as a drum and alternately a clarinet, bagpipe or recorder/flute. I finally felt that I had a taste of Hungary.
Our meal last night, which was supposed to be typical Hungarian 'soul food', was not a great success. My mushroom goulasch had no paprika and was just thick and heavy, Karen's liver dumpling soup was off-putting, and Tara had a vegetable soup that was actually better than expected, but appeared to be vegetables all mashed up and put through a sieve. Tonight we ate at a well rated French bistro and were happy to have salads for dinner. Breakfast was at a coffee/smoothie/ health food establishment nearby and Tara was especially happy to start the day healthfully with yoghurt and fruit and muesli. For lunch, we focussed on dessert again, in a very old coffee shop in a quiet spot in Buda called Ruzwurm. The baroque coffee house has operated since 1827, with an interior unchanged forom the early nineteenth century. The pastries were so tasty, that Elizabeth, the Austrian Empress and Queen of Hungary, sent her couriers to get cakes for her breakfast. We sat outside under and umbrellas and tried thick poppyseed strudel and I tried a dobos torte just for Maya. Her favorite cake is the dobos torte and I make it every birthday for her and her grandfather. My torte at home has more layers and more buttercream. I was not sure how long in our journey I could get espresso poured over whipped cream. so I had the best cafe I had in days.
So far, Hungarian food, which has a great reputation and uses generous portions of paprika, has not been impressive for us. We have perhaps not made the best choices in restaurants and I am disappointed that we will not have many more opportunities to try it again.
Our wanders took us to the Grand Synagaogue, the largest Jewish place of workshop in all the world after New York. The Hungarian Jews were actually protected fro a long time, but eventually when Hungary succumbed to the Reich, they were horribly treated. The synagogue is a curious combination of architectural styles, not necessarily all cohesive. My guide book described it as 'eclectic', which is a good word to use, I suppose. We did not enter, just walked around and peeked at what we could see, which were many plaques commemorating the loss of individual lives in 1945, and a Holocaust memorial which was in the shape of a tree. The area around the Synagogue was the Jewish ghetto, but we did not wander too far. We wanted to see the Opera, which is small, perhaps only accommodating 1200 people, again in a rather eclectic style, perhaps some baroque elements, and neoclassical as well.
I wanted to see the National Gallery across the Chain Bridge in Buda, so we retraced our steps across the bridge, and took the funicular for the short trek up the hill. The palace was in the neoclassical style, much like a smaller version of the church at Ezstragrom. It was unfortunately closed on Monday, so we admired Prince Eugen of Savoy's massive statue in front of the palace and enjoyed the view across to Pest. Walking through Buda was peaceful. The buildings are well preserved, mostly baroque in style, just two stories, colourful, and we enjoyed our time. We descended in to the labyrinth of caves that have been used for all sorts of purposes over the years, including storage, escape, as well as a prison. Count Dracula, the real Vlad the Impaler, had been imprisoned by the Hungarian King Matthias, for no clear reason. He was in the labyrinth prison for ten years, and his beloved wife suicided while he was incarcerated. He was excessively angry as a result, and developed his impressive bloody reputation. the labyrinth was dark and scary in places, but parts of it were a wax museum of figures out of operas, with garish costumes and makeup and music played along with the figures. Examples of stonework styles and craftsmen appeared along the way. The best part of our hour in the caves below the city was that it was a consistent 20 degrees, a welcome relief from the 30 degree weather outside.
We lingered over the view toward Pest and the Parliament Buildings, and admired the Church of St. Mattias, in neoGohtic style. I like the art nouveau buildings best, they are most innovative and interesting.
Our visit to Ruzwurm was next, where we filled up on necessary sweet things. We really did not want to leave Buda, because it was so easy to walk along without the noise and the cars and the masses of tourists down below, but then we wanted to see more art nouveau buildings which Hungary is famous for. We got lost when we ventured out on the Buda side and were redirected to the Danube and a striking view of the neoGothic Parliament buildings. Many parts of Budapest are truly lovely, not as consistent as Vienna, but full of lovely buildings. Karen doesn't like the grandness of everything in Vienna, so much of a display of Hapsburg power. I find that Budapest has many interesting corners, but is a mishmash of directions, of building styles, and of course many parts are poorly maintained and require renovation, and perhaps in ten or twenty years, when all cleaned up and renewed, it will be even more beautiful.
I did like the people, who were friendly and helpful and often tall and good-looking, especially the dancers in the Folkdancing troupe. I liked that the streets were full of people strolling, drinking coffee, eating out in the open. The pedestrian zone was extensive and full of outdoor cafes and restaurants. In front of the main cathedral, two booths and a number of tables and chars were set up to feed those Muslims who were fasting all day and had to brea their fast at sundown. I tried all day to find evidence of Turkish rule today and found nothing, except the group of covered ladies and their families gathered in front of the cathedral.
We also walked into the very gorgeous renovated art nouveau Four Seasons Hotel, originally the Grisham palace, and have made my decision as to where we stay next. I do like this city, we still have so much more to see and do and so little time, but we have a good reason to go back now.
Our meal last night, which was supposed to be typical Hungarian 'soul food', was not a great success. My mushroom goulasch had no paprika and was just thick and heavy, Karen's liver dumpling soup was off-putting, and Tara had a vegetable soup that was actually better than expected, but appeared to be vegetables all mashed up and put through a sieve. Tonight we ate at a well rated French bistro and were happy to have salads for dinner. Breakfast was at a coffee/smoothie/ health food establishment nearby and Tara was especially happy to start the day healthfully with yoghurt and fruit and muesli. For lunch, we focussed on dessert again, in a very old coffee shop in a quiet spot in Buda called Ruzwurm. The baroque coffee house has operated since 1827, with an interior unchanged forom the early nineteenth century. The pastries were so tasty, that Elizabeth, the Austrian Empress and Queen of Hungary, sent her couriers to get cakes for her breakfast. We sat outside under and umbrellas and tried thick poppyseed strudel and I tried a dobos torte just for Maya. Her favorite cake is the dobos torte and I make it every birthday for her and her grandfather. My torte at home has more layers and more buttercream. I was not sure how long in our journey I could get espresso poured over whipped cream. so I had the best cafe I had in days.
So far, Hungarian food, which has a great reputation and uses generous portions of paprika, has not been impressive for us. We have perhaps not made the best choices in restaurants and I am disappointed that we will not have many more opportunities to try it again.
Our wanders took us to the Grand Synagaogue, the largest Jewish place of workshop in all the world after New York. The Hungarian Jews were actually protected fro a long time, but eventually when Hungary succumbed to the Reich, they were horribly treated. The synagogue is a curious combination of architectural styles, not necessarily all cohesive. My guide book described it as 'eclectic', which is a good word to use, I suppose. We did not enter, just walked around and peeked at what we could see, which were many plaques commemorating the loss of individual lives in 1945, and a Holocaust memorial which was in the shape of a tree. The area around the Synagogue was the Jewish ghetto, but we did not wander too far. We wanted to see the Opera, which is small, perhaps only accommodating 1200 people, again in a rather eclectic style, perhaps some baroque elements, and neoclassical as well.
I wanted to see the National Gallery across the Chain Bridge in Buda, so we retraced our steps across the bridge, and took the funicular for the short trek up the hill. The palace was in the neoclassical style, much like a smaller version of the church at Ezstragrom. It was unfortunately closed on Monday, so we admired Prince Eugen of Savoy's massive statue in front of the palace and enjoyed the view across to Pest. Walking through Buda was peaceful. The buildings are well preserved, mostly baroque in style, just two stories, colourful, and we enjoyed our time. We descended in to the labyrinth of caves that have been used for all sorts of purposes over the years, including storage, escape, as well as a prison. Count Dracula, the real Vlad the Impaler, had been imprisoned by the Hungarian King Matthias, for no clear reason. He was in the labyrinth prison for ten years, and his beloved wife suicided while he was incarcerated. He was excessively angry as a result, and developed his impressive bloody reputation. the labyrinth was dark and scary in places, but parts of it were a wax museum of figures out of operas, with garish costumes and makeup and music played along with the figures. Examples of stonework styles and craftsmen appeared along the way. The best part of our hour in the caves below the city was that it was a consistent 20 degrees, a welcome relief from the 30 degree weather outside.
We lingered over the view toward Pest and the Parliament Buildings, and admired the Church of St. Mattias, in neoGohtic style. I like the art nouveau buildings best, they are most innovative and interesting.
Our visit to Ruzwurm was next, where we filled up on necessary sweet things. We really did not want to leave Buda, because it was so easy to walk along without the noise and the cars and the masses of tourists down below, but then we wanted to see more art nouveau buildings which Hungary is famous for. We got lost when we ventured out on the Buda side and were redirected to the Danube and a striking view of the neoGothic Parliament buildings. Many parts of Budapest are truly lovely, not as consistent as Vienna, but full of lovely buildings. Karen doesn't like the grandness of everything in Vienna, so much of a display of Hapsburg power. I find that Budapest has many interesting corners, but is a mishmash of directions, of building styles, and of course many parts are poorly maintained and require renovation, and perhaps in ten or twenty years, when all cleaned up and renewed, it will be even more beautiful.
I did like the people, who were friendly and helpful and often tall and good-looking, especially the dancers in the Folkdancing troupe. I liked that the streets were full of people strolling, drinking coffee, eating out in the open. The pedestrian zone was extensive and full of outdoor cafes and restaurants. In front of the main cathedral, two booths and a number of tables and chars were set up to feed those Muslims who were fasting all day and had to brea their fast at sundown. I tried all day to find evidence of Turkish rule today and found nothing, except the group of covered ladies and their families gathered in front of the cathedral.
We also walked into the very gorgeous renovated art nouveau Four Seasons Hotel, originally the Grisham palace, and have made my decision as to where we stay next. I do like this city, we still have so much more to see and do and so little time, but we have a good reason to go back now.
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